Rolex watches History

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Rolex History

The History of Rolex

Index

The Beginnings of Rolex
Vintage
Oyster Precision
Ladies'
Mid-Size
Men's
Sport Watches
Men's Day-Date (Rolex President)
Cellini
Geneve Precision
Rolex Chronograph

The Beginnings of Rolex

Rolex is a brand of Swiss wristwatches and accessories renowned for their quality and exclusivity, as well as their cost (from a few thousand to more than one hundred thousand U.S. dollars). The watches have become status symbols of the rich and famous as well as the upwardly-mobile career-minded individual. Although a symbol of success, Rolex has earned its strong reputation through innovations in design and function over many decades.

The Rolex, SA company was founded in 1905 by Mr. Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law, Mr. Alfred Davis. Contrary to popular belief, Hans Wilsdorf was neither Swiss, nor a watchmaker. Wilsdorf & Davis was the original name of what later became the Rolex Watch Company. They originally imported Hermann Aegler's Swiss movements to England and placed them in quality cases made by Dennison and others. These early wristwatches were then sold to jewellers, who then put their own names on the dial. The earliest watches from the firm of Wilsdorf and Davis are usually marked "W&D" inside the caseback only.

Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark name "Rolex" in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland during 1908. The word was made up, but its origin is obscure. One story, which was never confirmed by Wilsdorf, is that the word "Rolex" came from the French phrase horlogerie exquise , meaning exquisite watch industry .

The Wilsdorf & Davis company moved out of Great Britain in 1912. Wilsdorf wanted his watches to be affordable, but taxes and export duties on the case metals (silver and gold) were driving costs up. From that time to the present, Rolex has been headquartered in Geneva , Switzerland , though the company owns facilities in other cities ( Bienne , etc) and continents ( North America , Asia , Australia , etc).

The company name Rolex was officially registered on 15 November 1915 . It is thought this change was part of a drive to popularize wristwatches, which at the time were still considered a novelty largely for women (pocket watches were more common). Wilsdorf was said to desire his watch brand's name to be easily pronouncable in any language. The company name was offically changed to the Rolex Watch Company during 1919. It was later changed to Montres Rolex, SA and finally Rolex, SA.

Among the company's innovations are the first self-winding watch; the first waterproof watch case; the first wristwatch with a date on the dial; the first watch to show two timezones at once; and most importantly the first watchmakers to earn the coveted chronometer certification for a wristwatch. To date, Rolex still holds the record for the most certified chronometer movements in the category of wristwatches. Another little known fact is that Rolex participated in the development of the original quartz watch movements. Although Rolex has made very few quartz models for its Oyster line, the company's engineers were instrumental in design and implementation of the technology during the early 1970s.

The first self-winding Rolex watch was offered to the public in 1931, powered by an internal mechanism that used the movement of the wearer's arm. This not only made watch-winding unnecessary, but eliminated the problem of over-winding a watch and harming its mechanism. Rolex was also the first watch company to create a truly waterproof watch another milestone from novelty to functional timepiece. Wilsdorf even went so far as to have a specially made Rolex watch attached to the side of the Trieste bathyscaphe, which went to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. The watch survived and tested as having kept perfect time during its descent and ascent.

Rolex has also made a reputation in watches suitable for the extremes of deep-sea diving, aviation and mountain climbing. Sports models include the Oyster Perpetual Sea Dweller 2000 feet in 1971. This watch featured a helium release valve, co-invented with Swiss watchmaker Doxa, to dispense helium during decompression. Another is the GMT Master, originally developed at the request of Pan Am Airways, to assist pilots in transcontinental flights. The Explorer and Explorer II were developed specifically for explorers who would navigate rough terrain such as the world famous Everest Expeditions.

On the more glamorous side, Ian Fleming's James Bond character wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual in the series of spy novels. In the early EON production Bond films, Commander Bond was seen to wear a Rolex Submariner.

Among modern Rolex watches are the Air-King, Datejust, GMT Master/GMT II, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Daytona Cosmograph, Day-Date, Oyster Perpetual and Yacht-Master. Most Rolex watches have a case design called the Oyster. Dressy designs usually fall under the sister brand called Cellini. The third line in the Rolex empire is the lesser expensive, but high quality, Tudor brand. The primary types of Rolex bracelets include the Jubilee, Oyster and the President.

Rolex, SA, the current company name, is not a public corporation. In fact, it is a foundation initiated and originally funded by Hans Wilsdorf and the Aegler family. According to foundation documentation, the Rolex, SA company can never be sold, nor traded on any stock market.

Vintage (includes all watches from 1908 to 1950/60)

Vintage Rolex (1928 approx. 1960)

The vintage Rolex, including the Rolex Prince and Bubbleback, have been the most successful in the history of Rolex manufacturing and precision.
The Rolex Prince was developed in 1928 becoming a best seller with its dual dial and rectangular case. The Prince would go on to achieve huge success and earn a place in horological history befitting its name. This now vintage watch stood apart in those times thanks to the outstanding performance of its movement and time precision.
The Rolex Steel Bubbleback with the classic "bubbleback design" of the early automatic Oyster Perpetual Chronometer comes in 32mm steel tonneau case, engine-turned bezel with five minute increments, original crown stamped "Rolex Oyster" and luminous Mercedes hands.

Oyster Precision

Can be

Ladies'
Mid-Size
Men's (with 19 or 20 mm case)

General Characteristics:

The ones mentioned share the same characteristics . They are all Oyster, with screw down back and screw down crown, Date or No Date (the ones without Date have the words Rolex Oyster Precision written on the dial , and the ones that come with Date, Rolex OysterDate Precision), with date at 3, water resistant up to 100 meters. The bands follow the same criteria as of the normal Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The materials also follow the same criteria as of the normal Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The movement is mechanical with manual winding.

Case measurements can be:

Ladies' : 23 x 8.5
Mid-Size: 29.9 x 11
M en's : 34.5 x 10.3

Pics Reference   Caliber  
  6410 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6418 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6420 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6421 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
  6423 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6424 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
  6425 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6426 NO DATE 1210 Ladies
6522 DATE 1100 Ladies
  6523 DATE 1100 Ladies
  6524 DATE 1100 Ladies
6525 DATE 1100 Ladies
6466 DATE 1210 Mid-Size
  6423 DATE 1210 Mid-Size
6424 DATE 1210 Mid-Size
6430 DATE 1210 Mid-Size
6694 DATE 1225 Men's
  6964 DATE   Men's
  6494 DATE   Men's


Ladies'

They are classified as follows:

1) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 1160
2) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2030
3) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2130/2135
4) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2235

General Characteristics:

These 4 share the same characteristics , they are all Perpetual (mechanical with automatic winding), Oyster (water resistant up to 100 meters), with screw down back and screw down crown. If they come with Date, the crystal has a magnifying glass at the 3 o'clock aperture; they can be No Date, Date and Date-Just. )

1) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 1160

It was manufactured approximately from 1960 to 1973.

General Characteristics:


The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal with 26 jewels; case measurements are: 24.6 x 10.7 mm; with holes on the sides of the lugs for the pins; bands are : either old style oyster or old style jubilee. The original materials from manufacturing are stainless steel, stainless steel and 14K gold, solid gold either with 14 or 18 KT; the dial can say Date or Date-Just. The movement with STOP SECOND or Hack.

Here are some of their references:

Pics Reference   Material
6618 NO DATE Stainless steel y smooth bezel
6623   Stainless steel and fluted bezel
6516 DATE Stainless steel and smooth bezel
6517   Stainless steel and yellow, pink or white gold fluted bezel

(The references can vary, but are generally the above.)

2) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2030

It was manufactured approximately from 1974 to 1983.

General Characteristics:


The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal with 28 jewels; the case measures 24.6 x 10.2 mm and has holes on the sides of the lugs for the pins; the bands are always New Style, Oyster, Jubilee or President with hidden clasp and measure 13 mm at the lugs. The materials from manufacturing can be: stainless steel, stainless steel and 14KT gold or 18KT gold, come with Date or Date-Just dial . It comes with STOP SECOND or Hack. The watches that come with Date are all Non-Quick.

Some references for this model are:


Pics Reference   Material
6718 NO DATE Stainless steel and smooth bezel
6719   Stainless steel and fluted bezel; stainless steel and gold with fluted bezel
6916 DATE Stainless steel, stainless steel and gold or gold with smooth bezel
6917   Stainless steel y yellow or white gold with fluted bezel; or gold and fluted bezel

3) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2130/2135

2130 : It was manufactured approximately from 1983 to 1995.
2135 : It was manufactured approximately from 1995 to 1998.

General Characteristics:

The characteristics for this model are: sapphire crystal with 29 jewels; the movement is mechanical with automatic winding; case measurements are: 25.9 x 10.5 mm, with holes on the sides of the lugs for the pins; the bands are New Style, Oyster, Jubilee or President with hidden clasp. The materials from manufacturing can be: stainless steel, stainless steel and 18KT gold with white or yellow gold bezel, 18KT white, pink or yellow gold, and with platinum. The stainless steel watches from this category, that come with Date, have a word "DATE' written on the dial ; but if they also have any precious materials (such as white gold bezel or platinum), then the dial will say "DATE-JUST'. The watches with Date are Quick-Set.

Some references for this model are:


Pics Reference   Material
67180 NO DATE Stainless steel and smooth bezel
  67190 NO DATE Stainless steel and smooth bezel
69160 DATE Stainless steel and smooth bezel
69173 DATE JUST Stainless steel and 18KT gold with fluted bezel
  69190 DATE Stainless steel and fluted bezel
69178 DATE JUST Gold and fluted bezel


From this point on, the last, the 5 th , numbers of the references tell us what material the watch is made of. It can sometimes vary but it is usually like this:

1 ---> Yellow Gold Filled
0 ---> stainless steel
2 ---> stainless steel and platinum
3 ---> stainless steel and 18KT yellow gold
4 ---> stainless steel and 18KT white gold
5 ---> 18KT pink gold
6 ---> platinum
7---> 14 K Yellow Gold
8 ---> 18KT yellow gold
9 ---> 18 K white gold

4) Lady's Oyster Perpetual Caliber 2235

This model was manufactured, approximately, from 1998 until today.

General Characteristics: The characteristics for this model are: sapphire crystal with 31 jewels; the movement is mechanical with automatic winding; case measurements are 25 x 9.4 mm; the bands are New Style, Oyster, Jubilee or President with hidden clasp. The materials from manufacturing can be: 18KT pink, yellow or white gold, platinum, stainless steel and stainless steel and 18KT gold with white or yellow gold bezel.

The references for this model have the number 7 added ahead and are as follows:


Pics Reference   Material
76080 NO DATE (stainless steel and smooth bezel)
76030 NO DATE (stainless steel and milled bezel)
  76094 NO DATE (stainless steel and gold white with fluted bezel)
  76183 NO DATE (stainless steel y gold yellow with smooth bezel)
76188 NO DATE (gold yellow and smooth bezel)
  76193 NO DATE (stainless steel and yellow gold with fluted bezel)
  76198 NO DATE (gold and fluted bezel)
  76233 NO DATE (stainless steel and yellow gold with milled bezel)
  76243 DATE (stainless steel and yellow gold with Sapphire cut bezel)
  79160 DATE (stainless steel and smooth bezel)
79163 DATE JUST (stainless steel and yellow gold with smooth bezel)
79173 DATE JUST (stainless steel and yellow gold with fluted bezel)
79174 DATE JUST (stainless steel and white gold with fluted bezel)
  79190 DATE (stainless steel and milled bezel)
79240 DATE (stainless steel y milled bezel)
80298 DATE JUST PEARLMASTER (yellow gold, bezel with 32 diamonds and dial with 10 diamonds)
  80299 DATE JUST MASTERPIECE (gold white, bezel with 32 diamonds y dial with 10 diamonds)

Mid-Size

They are classified as the following:

1) Mid-Size Oyster Perpetual Plastic Crystal
2) Mid-Size Oyster Perpetual Sapphire Crystal

These 2 categories share the following characteristics :


They are perpetual (the movement is mechanical with automatic winding), with screw down back and screw down crown, if they have DATE, it will say Date-Just on the dial and the crystal has magnifying glass at the 3 where the aperture is located for the date, they can also come with NO DATE; they are all water resistant up to 100 meters.

1) Mid-Size Oyster Perpetual Plastic Crystal


It was manufactured approximately from 1960 to 1986.
The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal ; the case measures 30 x 11.7mm.
The movement in these watches are the same as that of the ladies watches. The mid-size watches were being changed in the same way and manner as the watches for ladies.

Some references for this model are:

Pics Reference   Material Caliber
6548 NO DATE Stainless steel 1160
6551 NO DATE Stainless steel 1160
6748 NO DATE Stainless steel 2030
6751 NO DATE Stainless steel 2030
6824 DATE JUST Stainless steel 2030
6827 DATE JUST Stainless steel / 14 Kt stainless steel and white gold 2030

2) Mid-Size Oyster Perpetual Sapphire Crystal

It was manufactured approximately from 1987 until present day.

The characteristics that are found in this model are the same as that of the Mid-Size with plastic crystal . The only difference is the sapphire crystal and the Quick Set. The bands are New Style, instead of Old Style, with Oyster, Jubilee or President band styles .


Some references for this category are:

Pics Reference   Material  
77014 NO DATE

Stainless steel WG

 
  77080 NO DATE Stainless steel  
68273 DATE JUST Stainless steel  
68274 DATE JUST Stainless steel 18kt 2030
78273 DATE JUST Stainless steel WG 31 Jewels
  78274 DATE JUST Stainless steeland white gold fluted bezel 31 Jewels
  78240 DATE JUST stainless steel and smooth bezel 31 Jewels
78243 DATE JUST stainless steel and yellow gold with smooth bezel 31 Jewels
  78279   gold white with yellow gold fluted bezel 31 Jewels
  78278   yellow gold  

Men's


Are classified as the following categories:
1) Men's Oyster Perpetual No Date Plastic Crystal
2) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Plastic Crystal Non Quick
3) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Plastic Crystal Quick Set
4) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Plastic Crystal Non Quick
5) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Plastic Crystal Quick Set
6) Men's Oyster Perpetual Air King Sapphire Crystal
7) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Sapphire Crystal Quick Set
8) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Sapphire Crystal Quick Set
These 8 models share the following characteristics :

They are automatic , oyster perpetual for ALL categories, with screw down back and screw down crown; if with date, the crystal has magnifying glass at the aperture at 3 o'clock , and they can come with Date, Date y Date-Just depending on the model, and they are always water resistant up to 100 meters.

1) Men's Oyster Perpetual No Date Plastic Crystal

It was manufactured approximately from 1960 until 1984.

The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal with 26 jewels; the case measures 36 x 12.3mm with holes on the sides for the pins; the band can either be Old or New style band , depending on the year, with either oyster or jubilee styles.

The materials from manufacturing can be stainless steel, stainless steel and 14KT gold with yellow, white, or pink gold bezel, or the whole watch in solid 14 KT or 18KT pink or yellow gold.

Here are some of their references:

Pics Reference Material Caliber Jewels  
5500

Stainless steel

1520

1530

26 Air King
5504 Stainless steel

1520

1530

26 Oyster Perpetual
5501 Stainless steel & gold

1520

1530

26 Air king
1002  

1560

1570

26 S. Bezel
1003  

1560

1570

26  
  1004  

1560

1570

26  
1005  

1560

1570

26  
1006  

1560

1570

26  
1007  

1560

1570

26  
1008  

1560

1570

26  
1018  

1560

1570

26 Case 36mm & band 20mm
1038  

1560

1570

26  




From the 1003 reference up until 1038 they can come with FLUTED or MILLED bezel .

2) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Plastic Crystal Non Quick

It was manufactured approximately from 1960 until 1983

The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal with 26 jewels; the case measures 34 x 12.3mm with holes on the sides for the pins; the bands are New Style or Old Style, oyster or jubilee with 19mm wide at the lugs. The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel, stainless steel and 14KT gold with yellow, white or pink gold bezel or the whole watch 14 KT or 18KT pink or yellow gold.

The movements for these watches are 1565/1575. Automatic movement that can come with hack or no hack, depending on the year of its manufacturing.

The dials always say DATE. The cases come with holes for pins on the lugs.

Here are some of their references:

Pics
Reference
Material
cxzcv 1500

Smooth bezel, stainless steel

ererwe 1501 Milled bezel, stainless steel or white gold
vdft 1503 Fluted bezel
dd 1505 Fluted bezel, stainless steel & gold
fsdf 1507 Fluted Bezel
fsdf 5700 A. King Date

3) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Plastic Crystal Quick Set


It was manufactured approximately from 1983 until 1989

The characteristic for this model are the same as the previous model. The only difference being the Quick Set function.

It has a plastic crystal with 27 jewels, the case measures 34 x 12.3 mm and it has holes on the sides for the pins, the band is New Style oyster or jubilee with 19mm wide at the lugs.
The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel only, stainless steel and 14KT gold with yellow or white gold bezel, or the whole watch in 14 KT gold o 18KT in pink or yellow.

The caliber for the movement is 3035.
Pics Reference Material
cxzcv 15000 S.S, Smooth bezel
ererwe 15010 S.S., Milled bezel
vdft 15053 S.S, and gold, Fluted bezel
  15058 Gold, Fluted bezel

4) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Plastic Crystal Non Quick


It was manufactured approximately from 1960 until 1983.

The characteristics for this model are: plastic crystal with 26 jewels; the case measures 36 x 12.3 mm with holes on the sides for the pins; the bands are New Style or Old style, oyster or jubilee with 20 mm at the lugs.

The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel, stainless steel and 14KT gold with yellow, white or pink gold bezel or the whole watch is 14 KT or 18KT pink or yellow gold.

The movements for this model are 1565/1575, can come with no hack or with hack (stop second feature), depending on the year of manufacturing.
The dials always say DATE-JUST and the cases come with holes for pins on the lugs.

Pics Reference Material
cxzcv 1600

S.S, Smooth bezel

ererwe 1601 S.S. O S.S and with white, yellow or pink gold fluted bezel.
vdft 1603 S.S. With fluted Bezel
vdft 1625 S.S., S.S. & gold, gold with bezel (Turn 'O Graph)

5) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Plastic Crystal Quick Set

It was manufactured approximately from 1977 until 1989

The characteristic for this model are the same as the previous model. The only difference would be the Quick Set function.

It has a plastic crystal with 27 jewels, the case measures 36 x 12.3 mm and with holes on the sides of the lugs for the pins. The bands are New Style, oyster or jubilee with 20 mm wide at the lugs.

The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel only, stainless steel and 14KT o 18KT gold, with yellow, white gold bezel, or the whole watch with 14 KT or 18KT pink or yellow gold.

Here are some of their references:


Pics Reference Material
16000 16000

Stainless steel, smooth bezel

16013 16013 Stainless steel and 14 or 18KT gold
16014 16014 Stainless steel and white gold bezel

There also exists a Rolex with a quartz movement. It is called: Rolex OYSTER QUARTZ

Pics Reference Material
cxzcv 17000

Stainless steel

ererwe 17013 Stainless steel, stainless steel and 14 or 18KT gold

6) Men's Oyster Perpetual Air King Sapphire Crystal

It was manufactured approximately from 1983 until present day.

This model has similar characteristics as the model with plastic crystal , the only difference would be the sapphire crystal , with 31 jewels; the case measures 34 x 12.3 mm with holes on the sides for the pins, and no hole for the more recent models. The band is New Style, oyster or jubilee; 19mm wide at the lugs.

The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel, stainless steel and 18KT gold, with yellow or white gold bezel; and the whole watch 18KT yellow gold. Here are some of their references:

Pics Reference
cxzcv 14000
ererwe 14000m


7) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date 34mm Sapphire Crystal Quick Set

It was manufactured approximately from the year 1987.

The characteristic for this model are the same as the previous model. The only difference would be the Quick-Set function.

It comes with sapphire crystal with 31 jewels, the caliber is 3135; the case measures 34 x 12.3 mm with holes on the sides for the pins. The band is New Style, oyster or jubilee with 19mm at the lugs.

The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel only, stainless steel and 18KT gold with yellow or white gold bezel; or all the whole watch in 18KT yellow gold.

Pics Reference Material
cxzcv 15200

Stainless steel

ererwe 15210  
  15233  
vdft 15238  

8) Men's Oyster Perpetual Date Just 36mm Sapphire Crystal Quick Set

It was manufactured approximately starting for the year 1987.

The characteristics for this model are the same as the previous. The only difference would be that they are all DATE JUST.

It comes with sapphire crystal with 31 jewels, the caliber is 3135; the case measures 34 x 12.3 mm with holes on the sides for the pins. The band is New Style, oyster or jubilee band , 19mm at the lugs.

The materials from manufacturing for this model can be stainless steel only, stainless steel and 18KT gold with yellow or white gold bezel, or the whole watch in 18KT solid yellow gold.

Pics Reference Material
cxzcv 16200

 

ererwe 16234 Bezel gold white and stainless steel
vdft 16233 Stainless steel and gold 18KT
dd 16238 Gold 18
  16239 Gold white
fsdf 16263 Turn ‘O Graph stainless steel and gold
fsdf 16264 White gold bezel

Rolex Sport Watches

They are classified as follows:


1) Explorer
2) Explorer II
3) GMT Master I (aviation)
4) GMT Master II
5) Submariner NO date
6) Submariner Date
7) Submariner Sea Dweller
8) Yacht Master


General Characteristics:


They are all automatic with screw down back and screw down crown; if they are with date, the crystal has a magnifying glass at the 3 o'clock aperture (except with the sea Dweller).
They were manufactured at the same time as the birth of the Oyster and are still in production today.

The materials from manufacturing are stainless steel only, stainless steel and 14 or 18KT gold, stainless steel and platinum, yellow or pink gold, or very rarely, platinum.

1) Rolex Explorer

All Rolex Explorer watches (we only mean Rolex Explorer I) come with NO DATE, and the case measures 36mm. The dial has a black background with a luminescent triangular marker at the 12 o'clock and luminescent Arabic numbers and a smooth bezel .

This model was designed especially by Rolex to be used for the Artic expeditions or to be used to climb high altitudes. It was tested by Rolex in the first expedition to the top of Mount Everest in 1953.

The main references are the following:


Pics Explorer I Caliber Jewels Crystal Band Year Hack Holes
1016 1560/70 26 Plastic Old /new

1950/

1984

Depending

On year.

Yes
  14270 3130 31 Sapphire New 1984/1995 Yes Yes/ No
  114270   31 Sapphire New 1995/act. Yes No

 

2) Explorer II

It was created in the 1970´s with the reference # 1655, being very similar to the GMT Master, except having a fixed bezel. This watch was made especially for speleologist (cave diggers) who easily loose track of time, whether it would be morning, afternoon, evening, or night. So it was that a 4 th hand was introduced which rotated once every 24 hours. It has a 4 th hand that indicated whether it is AM or PM. This hand would indicate to the cave diggers if it was 5 in the afternoon or 5 in the morning. However, the Rolex Explorer II became more popular with pilots or air traffic controllers than with speleologists.

Some references for this model are:

Pics Explorer I Caliber Jewels Crystal Band Year Hack Holes Bezel
1655 1575 24 Plastic Non quick

1970/

1984

Depending

On year.

Yes 24 hs
16550 3085   Sapphire Quick set 1985/1990 Yes Yes/ No 24 hs
16570   31 Sapphire Quick set   Yes No 24 hs
  116570   31 Sapphire Quick set   Yes No 24 hs

3) Rolex GMT Master I

It was created for aviation in 1954 with the reference # 6542, but the most commonly known reference # is 1675. It was manufactured between the 70s and 80s, producing modification only in the movement.
The bezel is rotating and has a 24 hour scale with a black dial with triangular luminescent marker at 12 o'clock and luminescent stick markers, but with no numbers . The term GMT means Greenwich Meridian Time; it is used to calculate different time zones. The bezel generally has 2 colors: red for AM and blue for PM. This model was made especially by Rolex at the request of PanAm Airlines in 1954 to be used by their pilots.

Pics GMT Caliber Crystal Quick Band Year hack/holes
1675 1575 24 Plastic Non quick

1970/

1984

Depending

On year.

  3085   Sapphire Quick set 1985/1990 Yes
16710   31 Sapphire Quick set   Yes

1675 stainless steel, stainless steel and 14 or 18KT gold, 18 KT solid gold
16753 stainless steel and 18KTS gold
16758 18KT solid gold

4) Rolex GMT Master II

It is the clone of the previous, although comes with a Quick Set feature for date.

5) Rolex Submariner NO DATE

It was created in 1954 with the reference # 6204, but the most commonly known would be the reference # 5513 that was manufactured between the 70s and 80s, making modification to the movement s and of the crystal .
It has a black dial with a triangular luminescent marker at the 12 o'clock , and the bezel is rotating with a scale of 60 minutes. Its submergibility is up to 200 meters (660 feet).
This model was especially made by Rolex to practice aquatic activities.
The model 5508 is known as the James Bond because it was worn by Sean Connery in the saga of 007.

    Pics
5508 James bond 5508
6236   6236
6238   6238
6200   6200
5513   5513
6205   6205
  14070 Sapphire, no date  

6) Rolex Submariner DATE

This Rolex Submariner DATE was created in the 70s with the reference # 1680, corresponding to the Men's DATE with the case measuring 40mm.
The bezel is rotating with a scale of 60 minutes, and the dial has a black background with a triangular luminescent marker at the 12 o'clock . Its submergibility is up to 300 meters (1000 feet)

Between 1971 and 1974 it had written on the dial “Submariner” with red letters. These are much more valuable to the collectors since it is usually written in white.

The band comes with a flip lock that serves to be utilized over the scuba diving suit, with an extra lock on the exterior for more security.

6800 16618 16613 1680
6800 16618 16613 1680

7) Rolex Submariner Sea Dweller

This model was designed by Rolex especially for the petroleum boom to support locations of high pressure. It has a valve of helium to support the underwater pressure, and Rolex manufactured this for the needs of Comex, and also for the other industrial companies.
The Sea Dweller with plastic crystal also comes with a hemispheric crystal . All of these models having a flip lock .

1665 (plastic) 16600 (sapphire)
6800 16618

8) Rolex Yacht Master

It was manufactured starting from the year 1990 with caliber 3135 and 31 jewels. The model 16622 Yacht Master is an equivalent of the 18kt Submariner. The watch was made in three measurements: 29mm, 35mm. and 40mm – it's for ladies', mid-size, and men's respectively. It comes in stainless steel with platinum bezel , stainless steel and 18KT gold, and the band s being Oyster (only with a flip lock ).

Ref. 169622 (29mm stainless steel w/platinum bezel)
Ref.168622 (35mm stainless steel w/platinum bezel)
Ref.16622 (40mm stainless steel w/platinum bezel)
Ref.169623 (29mm stainless steel and gold)
Ref.168623 (35mm stainless steel and gold)
Ref.169628 (29mm all gold)
Ref.168628 (35mm all gold)
Ref.16628 (40mm all gold)

168628 169623 168623
168628 169623 168623

7. MEN'S DAY DATE (ROLEX PRESIDENT)

The birth of this watch was in the year 1956, and it is still being manufactured today. It is one of the most prestigious watches made by Rolex. Originally, it was made especially for the presidents of a particular company or for anyone holding an important position, hence the name PRESIDENT.

General Characteristics:


Automatic, screw down back and crown, Date with magnifying glass at 3 o'clock position and Day (showing day of the week at 12); water resistant up to 100 meters, are always DATE-JUST. The case measurements are 36 by 13 mm. The crystal s can be plastic and sapphire, depending on the year of fabrication. They can be non-quick-set with plastic crystal ; single-quick-set with sapphire crystal, starting from 1977; and double-quick-set with sapphire crystal approximately from 1994 (double-quick-set referring to quick-set for both day and date). The materials are always precious metals: 18kt yellow, pink and white gold.



Pics Ref Caliber Jewels Year Cristal Holes Yes/no
cxzcv 1803

1555

1556

26

1958

/76

Plastic non-quick

yes

1802

1555/6

26

1958

/79

Plastic non-quick

yes

1804

1555/6

26

1958

/76

Plastic non-quick

yes

18038 3055/3155 27/31

1977

/88

Sapphire Quick-set no
18039 3055/3155 27/31

1977

/88

Sapphire Quick-set no
  18036

3055/3155

27/31

1977

/88

Sapphire Quick-set

no

18238 3155 31

1989

1995

Sapphire double-quick no
118238    

1996

act.

Sapphire double-quick no

8. ROLEX CELLINI


Cellini is a sub-brand of Rolex which are manufactured with precious metals , for both men and women. They usually come in various shapes other than the standard round Rolex shape. They were first manufactured in 1975 and they are still being made today.

Pics Reference
cxzcv 4112
4111
4015
4104

9. ROLEX GENEVE PRECISION


These are similar to the Cellini, starting in the '60s until present day, in that they share the same characteristics , the only difference being it only comes in stainless steel.

Pics Reference   Caliber  
  6410 No date 1210 Ladies
6418 No date 1210 Ladies
6420 No date 1210 Ladies
6421 No date 1210 Ladies
  6423 No date 1210 Ladies
6424 No date 1210 Ladies
  6425 No date 1210 Ladies
6426 No date 1210 Ladies
6522 No date 1210 Ladies
  6523 No date 1210 Ladies
  6524 No date 1210 Ladies
6525 No date 1210 Ladies
6466 No date 1210 Ladies
  6423 No date 1210 Ladies
6424 No date 1210 Ladies
6430 No date 1210 Ladies
6694 No date 1210 Ladies
  6964 No date 1210 Ladies
  6494 No date 1210 Ladies

10. ROLEX CHRONOGRAPH WATCHES & Rolex Daytona Cosmograph


Rolex was not among the chronograph pioneers, choosing to focus their energies on the Oyster and the Perpetual . However the success of these watches propelled Rolex to be in the position of being the "sportsman's" watch and sportsmen demand a chronograph.

Instead of developing their own movement Rolex chose to use the Valjoux movement. It was available in three sizes and they were all simple one button chronographs. These allowed the user to time one continuous event. This one button chronograph was popular but the more it was used the more obvious its limitations were. Customers demanded the ability to stop the watch intermittently which was of course impossible without resetting the time. It was not until the late 1930's that anything changed with the arrival of the two button chronograph. This was a major breakthrough and now allowed people to stop the watch to take necessary breaks and than restart it on the same time as when they left off. A football referee could stop the watch each time a ball went out and then get an accurate 45 minutes play.

At the end of the 1930's the "Zerograph" was produced in very limited quantities. The watch model 3462 marked an important turning point for Rolex as it was the first watch to feature the Oyster crown and is now extremely sort after.

The first true Oyster chronograph was the model 4500, which never sold in huge quantities as it was released during World War II. The 6232 and the 3668 models followed but proved just as unpopular. Both new models used the 13" Valjoux movement and had just a thirty minute register. While Rolex in 1942 had introduced an hour recorder it was a snap on back it would be another seven years before the Oyster case and the three button chronograph would be brought together in the form of the 5034. During the next fifteen years the 5034 changed into the 6034, which then became the 6234. This in turn became the 6238 and then finally evolved into the 6239.

These changes although little by little had inspired Rolex to revive the previously shelved name the "Cosmograph". The only difference between the 6239 and the 6238 was that on the 6239 the bezel was engraved with tachymeter graduations rather than having them on the dial.

The last major changes to the manual wind chronograph came in the late 1970's when Rolex introduced the 6263 model. This was the first model to have truly waterproof pushers. The earlier Oyster Chronographs had simple round pushers with internal gaskets as the only sealing mechanism.

The screw down pushers were added to stop people pressing the buttons, whilst submerged in water. The locking function also prevented the chronograph being activated inadvertently. The new 6263 started life as being waterproof to 165 feet, ten years later it was capable of twice that depth (100 meters) The 6263 is unusual in the fact that the quality of the movement depended on which case you had. The steel chronograph movements were not timed to a chronometer standard.

Despite the innovative design it was not until 1986 when the popularity of the Daytona started to increase, reaching its zenith with a particular Daytona model, the " Paul Newman ". This model featured square markers on the subsidiary dials, and an outer track the same colour as the subsidiary dials. Although the origins of this nickname for the dial are obscure this is the easiest term to refer to this watch. This unusual dial colourful and deco in appearance was only in production for a short period of time form its introduction in 1970.

Rolex finally released the new version of the Daytona in 1991. They had abandoned the workhorse Valjoux movement in favour of the Zenith movement. The new dials featured large subsidiary dials and had an inner track in a contrasting colour. Dial colours included black, white, champagne and each watch had "Daytona" in red on the dial and they all had screw-down pushers.

The stainless steel Daytona has become one of the most sought after watches of all time. Because there were higher profit margins in the gold and mixed metal watches there was a shortage of the steel one as there just were not enough being produced.

Rolex's latest addition to the Daytona hysteria was launched at the end of 2000. The 116520 which like the rest of Rolex's models has an extra 1 prefix to differentiate it from the others. There have been a few dial refinements but the main difference is the fact that Rolex are now using an in house movement instead of the old Zenith one. [This extract was taken From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ]

Please, read also about Chronograph.

Pics Reference
cxzcv 6265
16520
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